The
relationship between Charles James and Halston
was long and complicated. In 1958 Page Zwecker,
fashion editor of the Chicago Daily News,
introduced the two designers. Charles was at the
peak of his fame but his world was about to fall
apart, Halston who was just starting out and
instantly became Charles James's acolyte and
later that year moved to New York so he could
make hats for Lilly Dache. who he had met
through James. As Dache recalled: "Halston
learned a great deal from Charles about
designing and the world of style and probably
other things -too".
Charles
James was grand and under his mentor's
influence Halston
became even grander.
Then in
1970 Halston hired Charles --who was past his
prime as a "fashion consultant engineer" for the
Halston collections- The resulting collaboration
received a glowing full-page review from
Bernadine Morris in The NY Times. But as soon as
the review was out Halston who according to
Charles offered him $250 a week for the rest of
his life to stop designing dumped Charles
James. In the ensuing years of Halston's rise
to fortune and vast fame Charles obsessively
made of lists of designs Halston had stolen
from him and in his last years described Halston
to Couri Hay in tapes filmed by Anton Perish as
“a middle of the road man who would be better as
a buyer in a store or a stylist. He knows how to
select good things, but his passion has been to
put his name on it - the word plagiarism is
correct.”
Many
remembered their own experiences in the house
years before. All marveled at the Paul Rudolph's
famous staircases and the fire place into which
Elas Peretti famously, (in a fit of pique) flung
the fur coat Halston gave her. The house was
decorated with white orchids that were a Halston
trade mark---,another of the habits he assumed
from Charles James.