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Black Tie International Magazine Mrs. Ma. Qiaoqiu |
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Mrs. Ma. Qiaoqiu
繁花似锦
Flowers Blooming Like Brocade |
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为了礼服上这一片繁花,设计师做了很多尝试,既要好看又要有意境,它的大小、形状,甚至每一片色泽的阴暗程度,都是要考虑的因素。为此,钟艳画了无数的稿,在配色、绣制、走线时,不断否定自己以求达到更完美的效果,以致这套衣服光后期装饰工艺就花了数月时间。
这位设计师痴迷于传统文化留下的文明印记,从生活的每个细节获取创作灵感:家具上的雕花、街边的建筑,甚至是桌子角的某个纹路,都有可能成为她作品的一部分。
The designer tried different conceptions to accommodate her
vision of an ocean of flowers. All elements of embroidery
bring their own special significance. The size, the shape
and even the luster of each petal needs to be considered.
For that effect, Ms. Zhong drew hundreds of preparatory
sketches, continually revising and altering the design. Even
the final stages of modification required several months of
intricate work before the design fit the artist’s vision.
A designer immerses herself in the material facets of
culture; she is mindful of the details in everyday life and
absorbs inspiration from them, such as the carved patterns
on furniture or the terraced angle of buildings, or the
end-patterns on a table.
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为了礼服上这一片繁花,设计师做了很多尝试,既要好看又要有意境,它的大小、形状,甚至每一片色泽的阴暗程度,都是要考虑的因素。为此,钟艳画了无数的稿,在配色、绣制、走线时,不断否定自己以求达到更完美的效果,以致这套衣服光后期装饰工艺就花了数月时间。
这位设计师痴迷于传统文化留下的文明印记,从生活的每个细节获取创作灵感:家具上的雕花、街边的建筑,甚至是桌子角的某个纹路,都有可能成为她作品的一部分。
The designer tried different conceptions to accommodate her
vision of an ocean of flowers. All elements of embroidery
bring their own special significance. The size, the shape
and even the luster of each petal needs to be considered.
For that effect, Ms. Zhong drew hundreds of preparatory
sketches, continually revising and altering the design. Even
the final stages of modification required several months of
intricate work before the design fit the artist’s vision.
A designer immerses herself in the material facets of
culture; she is mindful of the details in everyday life and
absorbs inspiration from them, such as the carved patterns
on furniture or the terraced angle of buildings, or the
end-patterns on a table. |
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设计师与我分享了以下想法:
“中国风是我在服装领域要追求的最高顶点,因为中国的五千年文化给服装设计带来了很多灵感,作为中国人,更应该清楚我们骨子里的东西。”这种见地让我格外欢喜。精神上的同频共振让我们一见如故,也让我成为她的忠实客户。
Ms. Yan shared the following thought with me:
‘Chinese style is the highest calling I have in fashion
world, because the length and breadth of Chinese culture
provides infinite inspiration for costume design. As
Chinese, we should have a clear conception of what’s
intrinsic to our nature and make it real.’
I am particularly attracted to this view. At our first
meeting, it was obvious that we shared the same frequency in
spirit and had the same views about our culture. As a
result, we felt like old friends. I am a loyal customer ever
since.
万物皆是道,本身就承载着各民族文化内涵的服饰当然也不例外。她“以衣载道”,以针为笔、以线代墨,把传统文化中精髓的部分融合在服饰设计中,让穿着者对自己精神世界有所挖掘和思考,这一点深合我心。
向西方证明这个简单的事实很重要:中国设计反映的是中国文化。
All things contain Tao, as do clothes created by different
nations. She makes clothing that “embodies Tao”, and in her
custom designs, she integrates the essences of traditional
cultures. A needle to her is a brush to a painter. The
customers who wear her clothes find their spiritual world
reflected in them.
This practice of wearing one’s own culture finds a deep echo
in me.
It is important to demonstrate to the West this simple
truth:
Chinese design reflects Chinese culture.
“定制是一场修行,最昂贵的成本不是材料,而是时间。”这位设计师“守得住清贫,耐得住寂寞”,一件衣服花费几个月甚至半年、一年的时间制作,却只卖给一个人,在大多数人眼里了看来不值得,但她却乐此不疲,这是中国最需要的工匠精神。
The most expensive part in dressmaking is not the material,
but time. This designer ‘tolerates poverty and endures
loneliness.’ Why? She spends several months—as much as half
a year—to make one dress, and then to sell that dress to
just one person. In most people’s eyes, this is not
economically practical, but she pays no heed to such
sentiment.
That is precisely the artisan spirit we need in China.
我和她共同的期待是,让这朵来自东方的奇葩,依旧盛开在霓衫纷呈的今日,承载深厚的文化底蕴,在举手投足间展示中华的灵性和韵美。这长长的衣袖上,一端是时尚,一端是传统,中间流淌的是对中华文化的自信。希望这繁花,永远万紫千红的传承下去。
Our common desire is to have this wonderful embroidered
tapestry from the Orient continue to bloom in this
magnificent new time of ours; and that it will continue to
carry on the profound heritage of Chinese intelligence and
charm.
The long sleeves link at one end fashion, and at the other
end, tradition. The strong roots of Chinese culture stretch
between and connect them.
I hope that this flower will bloom
forever, like a piece of raised fabric with
its embroidered surface of elaborate weaves. |
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