Andrew Laffey's enormous four section, 350-seat, Hot
House restaurant wrapped in floor-to-ceiling glass,
is more than a eating destination, it is a culinary
statement, offering a broad spectrum of
Italian/American fare from over-sized, juicy
hamburgers and sandwiches to marbled steaks to a
wide range of appetizers, pizza, cool salads and
sufficiently supple pastas. The menu likewise brims
with spunky entrees, along with a number of
intriguing vegetarian creations.
It's hard
not to like a restaurant that goes all-out to
satisfy so many diverse taste- buds. Furthermore,
Hot House makes just about everything touted from
scratch, including soups such as tomato-basil or its
daily concoctions. On Sunday, Hot House creates
its own lavish, live-jazz buffet brunch at $18.95,
encompassing a staggering variety of breakfast foods
as well as hot main courses.
The dining
rooms are as fresh looking as the cuisine, decorated
with myriad columns, bracing colorful pictures,
furnished with sturdy booths, chairs and
wood-trimmed Formica topped tables. The entire
establishment is serviced by a grandiose open
kitchen and a well-trained, attentive male and
female wait-staff.
Among
executive chef Curt Hospedales out-side-the-box
temptations is the jumbo fried shrimp, bristling
in a course batter of crusty, shredded coconut,
deftly drizzled with tamarind sauce, faintly
imparting a hint of sweetness. Aromatic, Louisiana
crab cakes, heavy on crab, light on filler,
embellished with chili-lime aioli, also scores.
Caesar salad, a combination of fresh, crisp
romaine lettuce sprinkled with bacon bits and
crunchy croutons, is intelligently tossed with
Curt's Hot House Caesar dressing, is doubtlessly
worthy of your consideration, especially if you are
a salad aficionado.
Most sought
after desserts come in the form of multi-grain ,
thin-crusted pies. Beverages embrace a extensive
selection of coffee's, freshly squeezed juices and
mineral waters. If there are flaws here, we were
not subjected to them. Nevertheless, Hot House is
a special place, a restaurant with a distinct
personality, that obviously goes to the trouble to
experiment and the good sense to learn from its
mistakes. In sum, Hot House is a restaurant that is
on target.
Hot House
Cafe, 35 Church Street, Toronto, Ont. Phone:
416-366-7800. Lunch and dinner daily. Dinner
entrees $19.95 to $27.95. Accepts reservations and
major credit cards.