Nestled
in the verdant hills of California’s Napa
Valley, there’s a 12th century Tuscan-style
castle-winery, called Castello Di Amorosa, that
so perfectly authentic - with its own
drawbridge, dry moat, guardhouse and defensive
towers - that Walt Disney’s location scouts
chose it as the site for Adam Sandler’s medieval
fantasy in the family-friendly adventure comedy
"Bedtime Stories."
Completed in 2007, the
121,000-square-foot Castello di Amarosa ("Castle
of Love") is the lifelong dream of Dario Sattui,
an entrepreneur whose great-grandfather began a
family tradition of elegant, Italian-style
wine-making.
Sattui’s great-grandfather was
born in Genoa, Italy, which is also the
birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Vittorio
Sattui was a baker who emigrated to the United
States in 1882 with his wife, Kattarina,
settling in San Francisco. When he wasn’t
tending his bakery, Vittorio practiced the art
of wine-making in the boarding house he owned in
the Italian section of town, known as North
Beach.
Within three years, winemaking
had taken over Vittorio Sattui’s life. He
painstakingly chose grapes during the harvest in
St. Helena, a tiny town in the Napa Valley, and
ferried them to his original winery located at
722 Montgomery Street (now Columbus Avenue) in
San Francisco. The horse-drawn wagons of the V.
Sattui Wine Company soon became a familiar
sight, delivering prized barrels to patrons’
homes all around the Bay Area - until the
Prohibition laws during the 1920s forced the
family business to close.
As a child, I hoped my family
would reopen the winery, so I could learn how to
do it, and then someday take over,” recalls
Dario Sattui, who recently reclaimed his proper
name of Dario after being known as Daryl for
many years. But that never happened. So during
the 1970s, he traveled around Europe for two
years, listening and learning about the wine
business. When he returned, he apprenticed at
several Napa Valley wineries to gain experience.
But while he was in Italy,
Sattui became obsessed with medieval
architecture.
Back then, there were a lot of
abandoned palaces and
castles that people could not afford to keep up,
He recalls. I had a motorcycle and a car and I
would drive around. I would go down every road.
I would get up and dawn and come back after
dark. Sometimes I would go all day and find
nothing, but
if you did it day after day eventually you
would find
something great.
That quest for ‘something great’
turned out to be two medieval castles: a 10th
century Augustinian monastery, 23 miles east of
Sienna, which he is restoring, and a Medici
palace in southern Tuscany, near the border of
Lazio. Built in 1587 by Fernando I of Medici,
the palace, once known as a hotel called La
Posta de Medici, has had thousands of visitors,
including emperors and two popes.
"My idea is to make it a language school,
cooking school, wine school, or maybe a history
school with excursions into the countryside in
the afternoon," Sattui muses.
His most recent acquisition is a
20% interest in an 11th century castle, Castello
delle Serre, which functions as a small hotel in
the medieval town of Serre di Rapolano, located
20 minutes from Sienna and 25 minutes from his
monastery.
"I just love old architecture,
he marvels. If I had the money, I would buy them
all just to fix them up for posterity."
Suttui’s passion for exploring
old European castles eventually led him to Fritz
Gruber, an Austrian master builder who had
constructed a labyrinth of medieval cellars
underneath his own home. The two men quickly
discovered that they shared a similar passion
and, several months later, six Austrian builders
arrived in Napa Valley to construct the first
two rooms of Castello di Amorosa and train a
California crew, consisting primarily of
Mexicans.
"For three months, the European
craftsmen lived at my house at the bottom of the
hill, Dario Sattui remembers. None of them spoke
English, so I could not even communicate with
them. But we studied what they were doing, and
we learned how to do it."
That involved rugged building
techniques like cross-vaulting bricks and
hand-squaring stones 8,000 of them. Sattui
imported 200 year-old roof tiles from an Italian
farmhouse, along with iron nails, sconces and
chandeliers all hand-forged in Italy over
an open flame.
Of special interest is the
collection of 200 year-old bricks from Austria,
bearing the Royal Hapsburg seal. Most of these
were made by the royal brick maker to the
Hapsburgs. Clearly visible is the ‘H’ for
Hapsburg, the ‘W’ for ‘Wien’ or Vienna, the ‘D’
for Deus or God, and the double eagle, the
traditional symbol for the Hapsburgs.
Castle construction took 14
years. During the first ten, from
1993 to 2003, the two acres of underground
cellars and chambers were built. The
above-ground structure took
another four years. An estimated 8,000 tons of stone was hauled from two
local quarries. Authenticity was always a
paramount consideration.
"We did not use any cement,"
Sattui declares. "We used lime, sand and water.
They did not have cement (in the Middle Ages).
We did not use modern tools. We did almost
everything by hand."
Historically, castles were
always built in ages and stages, evolving over
time with sealed off doorways and windows and
reinforced arches. Sattui has duplicated this
look with a Romanesque building from the 9th to
13th centuries, adjacent to the rubbled look
characteristic of the 13th to 16th centuries.
There are eight levels to
Castello di Amarosa, including the 15,000
square-foot Grand Barrel Center, the Hall of the
Knights, 900 linear feet of caves, secret
passageways and a dungeon with an adjoining
torture chamber - with devices for agony - and,
of course, an escape tunnel. The 1,000-pound
hand-hewn wooden doors are imported from Italy
and the high towers are crenellated with narrow
slits so archers could shoot arrows from within.
One of the towers has a hole from which to pour
boiling oil on attackers.
The great hall, which is
available for rent and used by California
Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger for a luncheon
shortly after the castle was completed, features
a huge 500 year-old fireplace from a Tuscan
village. The 22-foot high ceiling is hand-carved
and hand-painted and the walls are adorned with
colorful frescoes that took two Florentine
brothers two years to create. In the center of
the room are immense handmade Italian monks
tables with matching chairs that were designed
by Dario Sattui.
In the Hall of the Knights,
intrigue was always seething and gossip rampant
from unseen inhabitants. So - with the
vaulted ceiling - it’s possible to stand in one
corner and speak softly - and have a companion
stand in another corner listening to every
whisper.
Hidden deep beneath, there’s
even a tiny room dedicated to the memory of
Vittorio Sattui, containing 125 year-old wines
that were made by him - many with his original
label.
Although Napa Valley prohibits
marriage ceremonies at local wineries, V.
Sattui’s medieval church, adorned with a fresco
of the Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary as
Queen of Heaven and Earth painted above the
hand-carved altar, was grandfathered in when the
Wine Definition Ordinance was passed in 1990.
The daughter of best-selling author Danielle
Steele held her wedding reception in an interior
courtyard, facing the church, stables and
southwest tower.
Another courtyard is where
Disney director Adam Shankman filmed several
sequences for "Bedtime Stories," in which Adam
Sandler played Skeeter, a hotel handyman who
spins tall tales for his niece and nephew.
Other prestigious visitors
include Jon Bon Jovi, Joe Montana, Clint Black,
Sir James Galway, Frederica von Stade, Joshua
Bell, Dmitry Sitkovetsky, Gordon Getty Jr.,
Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi, New York’s
Governor George Pataki and former New York City
\Mayor Rudy Giulani.
"We built this castle just like it would
have been done in the 12th century," Sattui says
proudly. "It’s a fitting honor to my Italian
forbearers and provides one of the world’s most
unique backdrops for our fine Italian-style
wines."
Of its 107 rooms (no two alike),
more than 90 are dedicated to winemaking, and
Castello di Amorosa offers daily tastings and/or
a 50-minute guided tour, followed by sampling
wines in a special tasting room. Reservations
are recommended and well-behaved children are
welcome. A VIP tour adds a tasting of reserve
wines and food pairings. "There are never more
than 12 people (on a tour), because we want it
to be an intimate, memorable experience for
everybody," Sattui says.
Three varieties of grapes -
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - are
grown on the property’s 30 acres of volcanic
soils, which are deficit-irrigated to yield the
best, not the most, grapes. The winery also
grows grapes on about 17 acres in Anderson
Valley. Now internationally acclaimed, the Pinot
Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Super Tuscan Blends are
made to pair superbly with food.
"One thing we do that’s
different from other wineries is we try to give
our red wines - except sangiovese, which is
meant to be younger - at least two years in the
bottle before we well it,"explains the winery’s
spokesman James Sullivan, adding that Castello
di Amorosa produces only 15,000 cases a year,
available only at the winery, through its wine
club, or online at
www.castellodiamorosa.com
Located
at 4045 Highway 29, just 5.5 miles north of St.
Helena in Calistoga, California, 94515 - the
telephone number is
707-967-6272.
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